Posted September 26th, 2011 - 1:06 pm by 
from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)
from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)Where and when are you travelling to, and for how long?
It is going to be a stress. Buy yourself the 'Vegan Passport' and get some 'cheatsheets' printed up. Cut back on the clothes your bring (they are cheap and good quality here) and pack whatever dried fruit and nuts, and granola bars etc you like because those are really expensive too and often hard to find.
Certainly Udon and Soba as vegan dishes are possible, Udon (mostly served hot) and Soba (mostly served cold) are vegan and just cooked in hot water. All you have to do is ask for them is in hot water without dashi ... and you can buy vegan dashi of your own to carry with you.
The restaurant owners will think you are crazy, and you will screw up their system which generally involved paying for your meal in advance and choosing a set menu item, but I manage to do so from time to time.
I've seen Avocado sushi called california sushi but I think it is rare. Rice balls (onigiri) with ume, sesame or pickled seaweed are available at most convenience stores. Soft mochis are going to be OK, savory (mugwort) or mildly sweet (sticky rice and usually red bean) and will get you through a day.
There are quite a lot of Indian restaurants, run mostly by Nepalis, and you might find cheap, safe veg curries at them. Depending on the area and type of year, you'll find many roast sweet potato sellers and sometimes corn-on-the-cob stalls.
There are a few veggie cafes you ought to consider treating yourself at, especially for the vegan sweets. In fact, very many of the common traditional sweets like warabe mochi, ichigo daifuku, mizu manju etc are all vegan especially if bought at local shops where they are made (factory ones may not be and are usually full of additives etc.
I have also found that a few likely restaurants do better 'eat as much as you like' buffet deals at lunch time and a few hotels/resorts do similar "viking lunch" meals that have enough veggie options to make them worthwhile.
There are an increasing number of backpacker hostels that allow self-catering. One of the commonest comments about veggie and macrobiotic restaurants is that the portions are all very small too. The big joke with most guys is how after they go out with the girlfriends to one, they have to go round the corner to an udon bar to fill up after.
Obviously you are able to buy fresh tofu products most places. The department store basements are usually full of food stalls but be warned, all those really attractive looking vegetable dishes are usually cooked with fish stock. Breads, unless they comes from a quality European style baker are almost all out (eggs, dairy and animal fats). Tempura veg that are not cooked in the same oil as seafood is possible, but also rare.
Sounds tough but when it is good, it is really, really good.
It is going to be a stress. Buy yourself the 'Vegan Passport' and get some 'cheatsheets' printed up. Cut back on the clothes your bring (they are cheap and good quality here) and pack whatever dried fruit and nuts, and granola bars etc you like because those are really expensive too and often hard to find.
Certainly Udon and Soba as vegan dishes are possible, Udon (mostly served hot) and Soba (mostly served cold) are vegan and just cooked in hot water. All you have to do is ask for them is in hot water without dashi ... and you can buy vegan dashi of your own to carry with you.
The restaurant owners will think you are crazy, and you will screw up their system which generally involved paying for your meal in advance and choosing a set menu item, but I manage to do so from time to time.
I've seen Avocado sushi called california sushi but I think it is rare. Rice balls (onigiri) with ume, sesame or pickled seaweed are available at most convenience stores. Soft mochis are going to be OK, savory (mugwort) or mildly sweet (sticky rice and usually red bean) and will get you through a day.
There are quite a lot of Indian restaurants, run mostly by Nepalis, and you might find cheap, safe veg curries at them. Depending on the area and type of year, you'll find many roast sweet potato sellers and sometimes corn-on-the-cob stalls.
There are a few veggie cafes you ought to consider treating yourself at, especially for the vegan sweets. In fact, very many of the common traditional sweets like warabe mochi, ichigo daifuku, mizu manju etc are all vegan especially if bought at local shops where they are made (factory ones may not be and are usually full of additives etc.
I have also found that a few likely restaurants do better 'eat as much as you like' buffet deals at lunch time and a few hotels/resorts do similar "viking lunch" meals that have enough veggie options to make them worthwhile.
There are an increasing number of backpacker hostels that allow self-catering. One of the commonest comments about veggie and macrobiotic restaurants is that the portions are all very small too. The big joke with most guys is how after they go out with the girlfriends to one, they have to go round the corner to an udon bar to fill up after.
Obviously you are able to buy fresh tofu products most places. The department store basements are usually full of food stalls but be warned, all those really attractive looking vegetable dishes are usually cooked with fish stock. Breads, unless they comes from a quality European style baker are almost all out (eggs, dairy and animal fats). Tempura veg that are not cooked in the same oil as seafood is possible, but also rare.
Sounds tough but when it is good, it is really, really good.
Posted September 26th, 2011 - 1:37 pm by 
from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)
from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)Thanks a lot your your reply, Mac! :-)
Ok, well, rice balls, Udon, Soba -- seems I'll be able to get my carbs from somewhere. That's really good. I just really worry about the vegetable intake. I guess my best bet would be to find something in a department store or maybe convenient store? What vegetable or fruit food would I be able to find? (not so much a whole meal, since I'll be ok with having the stuff mentioned above and fruits and vegetables on the side)?
Ok, well, rice balls, Udon, Soba -- seems I'll be able to get my carbs from somewhere. That's really good. I just really worry about the vegetable intake. I guess my best bet would be to find something in a department store or maybe convenient store? What vegetable or fruit food would I be able to find? (not so much a whole meal, since I'll be ok with having the stuff mentioned above and fruits and vegetables on the side)?
Posted September 26th, 2011 - 2:02 pm by from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)
from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)Where are you going, how long and what time of year (approx)?
If you can let me know and what you are looking for in terms of Japan, I can give you some more ideas?
e.g. some folks come for the skiing/boarding which is 10 times more difficult than average Japan.
If you can let me know and what you are looking for in terms of Japan, I can give you some more ideas?
e.g. some folks come for the skiing/boarding which is 10 times more difficult than average Japan.
Posted September 26th, 2011 - 4:50 pm by from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)
from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)We haven't done much planning yet, we'll definitely go to Toyko and Kyoto and stop somewhere near Mt. Fuji (make the five lakes place)
It'll be in March/April next year and for around 4 weeks
It'll be in March/April next year and for around 4 weeks
Posted September 26th, 2011 - 6:26 pm by from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)
from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)Oh, Spring. Try and make it for o-hanami. Both Kyoto and Tokyo will look much better for it. ... and look out for stuff like tsukushi, warabe ferns and rice porage made with the "The Seven Spring Herbs".
If you are interested, WWOOF-ing is a way of saving money and seeing a bit of every day country life ... http://www.wwoofjapan.com.
It is still a great opportunity and most of the places understand vegetarianism, although some of the places don't accept folk who don't eat what the family eats ... (and don't expect all the places to be strictly organic as in other countries).
You must know to buy a cheap train pass in advance. It is a great deal and you'll save a load of money. I'd recommend flying in via Kansai Airport. It is a lot closer to the city than Tokyo airports.
If you are interested, WWOOF-ing is a way of saving money and seeing a bit of every day country life ... http://www.wwoofjapan.com.
It is still a great opportunity and most of the places understand vegetarianism, although some of the places don't accept folk who don't eat what the family eats ... (and don't expect all the places to be strictly organic as in other countries).
You must know to buy a cheap train pass in advance. It is a great deal and you'll save a load of money. I'd recommend flying in via Kansai Airport. It is a lot closer to the city than Tokyo airports.
Posted September 27th, 2011 - 3:49 pm by from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)
from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)Aaah, I fear the WWOOF-ing is not really ours, we don't really want to do hours of manual work during our holidays.
I now read in a guide that soba and udon too are often cooked in nonvegetarian stock. And I was hoping this would be a safe dish.. :-(
I now read in a guide that soba and udon too are often cooked in nonvegetarian stock. And I was hoping this would be a safe dish.. :-(
Posted September 27th, 2011 - 7:08 pm by from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)
from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)I would say 'served' in non-vegetarian stock. Not cooked. But I can check.
They have special noodle pots with many portion sized sieves just for doing so ... and I have done it myself in restaurants. It would be impossible to large portions in broth because all the flour from the noodles would spoil it quickly.
Typically, the hot udon goes in a bowl plain and is then covered with soup, and served with non-veg tempura or meat on top. Some dishes serve the udon plain, with a separate dish of dashi which you can just ignore or use your own.
Kagawa Prefecture is famous for its udon and close to us. I have never seen noodles cooked in broth there and they say there are more udon shops than traffic lights. It even made it into an international "top 50 things for any food lover to do" but I cannot really see what the fuss is all about!
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2005/may/15/foodanddrink.shopping2
Also, it is not universally true because when you head up into the mountains, they use mainly soy bean, mushrooms to make stock instead. Again, I have checked this out with a native speaker.
Do you like the taste of Natto? You can get that everywhere.
My number one advice about coming to Japan would be a) be really focused on what you want to do, and b) find one place you really like or one thing you want to do, settle down a bit and stick to it. Travel and moving around the cities can be very tiring. Kyoto, and other cities like Kanazawa and Fukuoka, have all you might need to see old and new Japan.
Firstly, a lot of Japan is really similar thanks to the annihilation during the war and identical construction after it. All the temples and castle pretty much look the same and there are not the obvious region differences you might expect in, say, Europe.
Secondly, anywhere outside of the big cities gets dark quickly in the evenings and shut down and, outside of the big cities, you'll be surprise how little there is to do and how hard it is to find it. The Japanese hospitality industry is geared up for Japanese group bus tourism, and not independent travellers. Up early and into bed early.
Also watch out for Golden Week (end of April to beginning May) because it seems like everyone goes home and travel and hotels can become difficult.
Yes, certainly, Kyoto has enough for a lifetime of pleasure and back packer hostels. I especially recommend the Eco-House Machiya or the Okinawan run hostel opposite Funaoka Onsen (and going to the onsen!). You can cook your own food at both.
http://paulstravelpics.blogspot.com/2008/09/ultimate-kyoto-experience-renting-eco.html
Shirakawa-go village is pretty special and there is a hostel in an old temple in nearby Takayama where you can cook and stay. Shikoku Island is off the beaten track and you can get to it via ferries saving the price of an overnight hostel. Even the ferries have big public baths on them and after you can sleep it off on futon and tatami. Enough to eat on them too. Following the path less well travelled, it can take you to Beppu in Kyushu with its live volcano and famous kitsch town.
Kusatsu, in Gunma prefecture is another personal favorite of mine.
http://www.kusatsu-onsen.ne.jp/foreign/
They have special noodle pots with many portion sized sieves just for doing so ... and I have done it myself in restaurants. It would be impossible to large portions in broth because all the flour from the noodles would spoil it quickly.
Typically, the hot udon goes in a bowl plain and is then covered with soup, and served with non-veg tempura or meat on top. Some dishes serve the udon plain, with a separate dish of dashi which you can just ignore or use your own.
Kagawa Prefecture is famous for its udon and close to us. I have never seen noodles cooked in broth there and they say there are more udon shops than traffic lights. It even made it into an international "top 50 things for any food lover to do" but I cannot really see what the fuss is all about!
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2005/may/15/foodanddrink.shopping2
Also, it is not universally true because when you head up into the mountains, they use mainly soy bean, mushrooms to make stock instead. Again, I have checked this out with a native speaker.
Do you like the taste of Natto? You can get that everywhere.
My number one advice about coming to Japan would be a) be really focused on what you want to do, and b) find one place you really like or one thing you want to do, settle down a bit and stick to it. Travel and moving around the cities can be very tiring. Kyoto, and other cities like Kanazawa and Fukuoka, have all you might need to see old and new Japan.
Firstly, a lot of Japan is really similar thanks to the annihilation during the war and identical construction after it. All the temples and castle pretty much look the same and there are not the obvious region differences you might expect in, say, Europe.
Secondly, anywhere outside of the big cities gets dark quickly in the evenings and shut down and, outside of the big cities, you'll be surprise how little there is to do and how hard it is to find it. The Japanese hospitality industry is geared up for Japanese group bus tourism, and not independent travellers. Up early and into bed early.
Also watch out for Golden Week (end of April to beginning May) because it seems like everyone goes home and travel and hotels can become difficult.
Yes, certainly, Kyoto has enough for a lifetime of pleasure and back packer hostels. I especially recommend the Eco-House Machiya or the Okinawan run hostel opposite Funaoka Onsen (and going to the onsen!). You can cook your own food at both.
http://paulstravelpics.blogspot.com/2008/09/ultimate-kyoto-experience-renting-eco.html
Shirakawa-go village is pretty special and there is a hostel in an old temple in nearby Takayama where you can cook and stay. Shikoku Island is off the beaten track and you can get to it via ferries saving the price of an overnight hostel. Even the ferries have big public baths on them and after you can sleep it off on futon and tatami. Enough to eat on them too. Following the path less well travelled, it can take you to Beppu in Kyushu with its live volcano and famous kitsch town.
Kusatsu, in Gunma prefecture is another personal favorite of mine.
http://www.kusatsu-onsen.ne.jp/foreign/
Posted October 2nd, 2011 - 8:27 pm by from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)
from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)thats great advice, thank you very much.
btw, do you happen to know a nice place not too far from Tokyo or Kyoto for a overnight temple stay that lets visitors join in on Zen related activities?
btw, do you happen to know a nice place not too far from Tokyo or Kyoto for a overnight temple stay that lets visitors join in on Zen related activities?
Posted October 2nd, 2011 - 9:14 pm by from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)
from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)Also, I love, love, love the look of the Eco House. Do you happen to know about some similar place in Tokyo? We're hoping to find affordable accomodation for a whole week there too.
Posted October 3rd, 2011 - 3:37 am by from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)
from Matsuyama, Japan (Permalink)It is not actually a Zen center but one of the main Shingon Buddhist centers, the esoteric Buddhist school in Japan, called Koya-san (Mount Koya). It is only a short train, funicular train and bus ride up an old volcano from Osaka or Kansai airport. If you are flying into Kansai, it would make sense to go there first or last.
It is a complex of over 100 active temples, most of which have their own temple inns where you stay, and Okunoin, a vast and ancient Buddhist graveyard where many of the legendary samurai, lords etc are buried. When you stay there you stay in a temple inn and are serve Shojin Ryori (vegetarian temple food) by the monks.
The whole experience is a taste of a traditional and archetypal Japan that hardly exists any more thanks to the 20th Century. Wooden temples and inns, moss and pebble gardens, wobbly wooden corridors with sliding doors of paper on one side and rattle glass on the other, smells of incense and sleeping on futon on tatami mats, being served a formal meal of many dishes on several small tables low to the floor. It will be a little more expensive than your average hotel but if you have one overnight slurge, then I would say this should be it.
http://bit.ly/o0y1Wr
http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/nn20090121f1.html
http://bit.ly/pazF0T
Externally, there are very few differences between a Zen temple and a Shingon temple, nor in the purposes they serve for their neighborhood. Many of the rituals are the same even if the mediation practise is not.
If you are in Kyoto, Shunkoin offers Zen classes in English.
http://www.shunkoin.com/home.html
But if you want to really go native, Zuiō-ji Temple near Niihama on Shikoku where you can also stay over night and really immerse yourself. Again they welcome English speakers.
http://davidtitterington.blogspot.com/2005/08/zen-meditation-at-zuioji.html
It is a complex of over 100 active temples, most of which have their own temple inns where you stay, and Okunoin, a vast and ancient Buddhist graveyard where many of the legendary samurai, lords etc are buried. When you stay there you stay in a temple inn and are serve Shojin Ryori (vegetarian temple food) by the monks.
The whole experience is a taste of a traditional and archetypal Japan that hardly exists any more thanks to the 20th Century. Wooden temples and inns, moss and pebble gardens, wobbly wooden corridors with sliding doors of paper on one side and rattle glass on the other, smells of incense and sleeping on futon on tatami mats, being served a formal meal of many dishes on several small tables low to the floor. It will be a little more expensive than your average hotel but if you have one overnight slurge, then I would say this should be it.
http://bit.ly/o0y1Wr
http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/nn20090121f1.html
http://bit.ly/pazF0T
Externally, there are very few differences between a Zen temple and a Shingon temple, nor in the purposes they serve for their neighborhood. Many of the rituals are the same even if the mediation practise is not.
If you are in Kyoto, Shunkoin offers Zen classes in English.
http://www.shunkoin.com/home.html
But if you want to really go native, Zuiō-ji Temple near Niihama on Shikoku where you can also stay over night and really immerse yourself. Again they welcome English speakers.
http://davidtitterington.blogspot.com/2005/08/zen-meditation-at-zuioji.html
Posted October 23rd, 2011 - 3:01 pm by from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)
from Barcelona, Spain (Permalink)thanks really great, thanks :-)
