The landscape is the star in Crimea; even those initially lured by the peninsula’s fascinating past usually come to agree. Not that ‘landscape’ means the pebbly Black Sea beaches, crumbling concrete high-rises and post-Soviet kitsch of the main resort, Yalta, which isn’t going to steal the market from Benidorm any time soon. Rather, it’s the sheer mountain cliffs rising behind a coastline covered with cypress, juniper and grape vines that make this Tatar and other nationalities homeland so breathtakingly exotic and unique. High limestone plateaus, expansive vistas, bizarre volcanic formations and Byzantine ‘cave cities’ all lie inland from such historical landmarks as Balaklava, Sevastopol and Livadia (where Churchill, Roosevelt and Stalin carved up postwar Europe). So, all in all, walking shoes are just as important as your swimming costume.